Whenever I think about buying a new watch I follow one of two paths. I either go looking for vintage watches, on ebay, vintage shops, antique markets, anywhere you can find them, or I venture into a very dangerous place, full of pretty things: the Grand Seiko website.
Just to clarify, that does not mean I buy GS’s every now and then. Not in the slightest. While I can find really cool, interesting, and sometime unique watches in antique markets for a very friendly price, when I visit Grand Seiko’s web space, is to look into the possible future, is to be fascinated by the precision and artistry, and to droll all over my keyboard, waiting for the day I will be able to have my own Japanese perfect snowflake.
Yes, my most sought after timepiece, my grail as it is called in the watch conversation circles, is not your normal Rolex, Omega, AP run of the mill. My perfect watch is, and probably will be until the day I found it, the Grand Seiko SBGA211, aka the Snowflake.
There is almost no need to talk about the Snowflake here. There is so little to scrutinise that is has not yet been scrutinised by other major outlets such as Hodinkee, Watchfinder & co., etc. Everyone knows about the Snowflake, and knows why it is so special, amazing, and perfect. So I will just move on, and try to talk about another watch, that can be considered a student, a padawan of the great SBGA211, one that I like to call the “almost Snowflake”.
Seiko, for all that matters, is larger than Grand Seiko. In one way or another, GS is the child of the historical Japanese technological and artistic venture that is Seiko. And Seiko births not only my favourite watch, but also many other timepieces that do not carry the “Grand” on their dials. Within the many collections that Seiko has under its umbrella, the Presage is one that carries the more elegant, sophisticated, and classy characteristics. And going deeper, within the Presage line, there is what is called the cocktail collection.
Seiko releases very interesting watches under the cocktail collection, all based on drinks created at the Star Bar in Ginza, Tokyo. Each watch is inspired by one of those drinks. From Martinis to Stingers, the collection tries to embody the essence of the cocktail. And one of those special drinks, developed at the bar is the Fuyugeshiki.
Meaning “winter scene”, this cocktail is made of Vodka, cream, and lychee juice – not my cup of tea – and the watch aims to recreate the smooth, creaminess of the drink in its dial. And it ends up looking a lot like its more expensive brother, the SBGA211.
The SRPC97J1 – I have the date version, but it also comes in a power reserve version, and a ladies model as well – is simply beautiful. It is a limited edition, of 7000 pieces worldwide, and it could not deserve better the title of “almost Snowflake”. It has a clean and smooth white, matte dial, matched with high polished arrow head markers, a really simple but elegant date window, and high polished lance-like hands. A fantastic detail however, is the really sharp, steel blue second-hand, which differs so much from the shiny stainless steel, but at the same time, matches perfectly with the cold and cool style.
The dial. Well, the dial is the most amazing attempt to mimic the mastery of the Grand Seiko SBGA211. It is clean, smooth, but then you notice the grooves, and the patterns, and the waves, and then the whole scene just opens, and you realise that the thought, the care, and the design that comes from GS are all there. The only thing that is not, is the perfection. Not that it it not great. It is absolutely the most beautiful watch dial I own at the moment, and one of the most gorgeous I have ever seen, even towards the very, very high end of the spectre. But that is the issue. When you are aiming for perfection, you are only second to perfection. And I think that is the result here, an almost perfect, very well made, more good looking than most expensive watch out there, but it is a Snowflake in training. Which is not bad. It reflects the stage I am in on my watch collection and appreciation journey, a learner, trying to learn and looking up to the masters.
One of my favourite things on this watch is the open back case, or exhibition back as some call it. I know, the movement is not a highly crafted A. Lange & Sohne, nor it is a masterfully perfection of the Grand Seiko 9S85. However, being an watch enthusiast, every movement, even the most simple Miyota, is so fun and interesting to see at work. The calibre 4R35 is simple, do the job, but with a gold plated rotor, it turns into a fascinating movement to have and to look at. I sometimes find myself with watch in hand, just staring of the spring wheel turning and turning, and the gold rotor going back and forward. I think that is the most fun thing about watches, that every watch, if crafted with care, can create this feeling of awe and reverence.
I love this watch, and for me, it was the first step into the path towards my grail watch. It is a meaningful and thoughtful path, going from an affordable, well made Japanese Seiko, the “almost Snowflake”, to the glorious flawless master Japanese timepiece, the actual “Snowflake”.
Hope to come back here one day to talk about another Snowflake…
The Column Wheel 